6th——Weproceededduesouth,andsleptatRancagua。Theroadpassedoverthelevelbutnarrowplain,boundedononesidebyloftyhills,andontheotherbytheCordillera。ThenextdayweturnedupthevalleyoftheRioCachapual,inwhichthehot-bathsofCauquenes,longcelebratedfortheirmedicinalproperties,aresituated。Thesuspensionbridges,inthelessfrequentedparts,aregenerallytakendownduringthewinterwhentheriversarelow。Suchwasthecaseinthisvalley,andwewerethereforeobligedtocrossthestreamonhorseback。Thisisratherdisagreeable,forthefoamingwater,thoughnotdeep,rushessoquicklyoverthebedoflargeroundedstones,thatone’sheadbecomesquiteconfused,anditisdifficulteventoperceivewhetherthehorseismovingonwardorstandingstill。Insummer,whenthesnowmelts,thetorrentsarequiteimpassable;
theirstrengthandfuryarethenextremelygreat,asmightbeplainlyseenbythemarkswhichtheyhadleft。Wereachedthebathsintheevening,andstayedtherefivedays,beingconfinedthetwolastbyheavyrain。
Thebuildingsconsistofasquareofmiserablelittlehovels,eachwithasingletableandbench。TheyaresituatedinanarrowdeepvalleyjustwithoutthecentralCordillera。Itisaquiet,solitaryspot,withagooddealofwildbeauty。
ThemineralspringsofCauquenesburstforthonalineofdislocation,crossingamassofstratifiedrock,thewholeofwhichbetraystheactionofheat。Aconsiderablequantityofgasiscontinuallyescapingfromthesameorificeswiththewater。Thoughthespringsareonlyafewyardsapart,theyhaveverydifferenttemperature;andthisappearstobetheresultofanunequalmixtureofcoldwater:forthosewiththelowesttemperaturehavescarcelyanymineraltaste。Afterthegreatearthquakeof1822thespringsceased,andthewaterdidnotreturnfornearlyayear。Theywerealsomuchaffectedbytheearthquakeof1835;thetemperaturebeingsuddenlychangedfrom118to92degs。[1]Itseemsprobablethatmineralwatersrisingdeepfromthebowelsoftheearth,wouldalwaysbemorederangedbysubterraneandisturbancesthanthosenearerthesurface。
Themanwhohadchargeofthebathsassuredmethatinsummerthewaterishotterandmoreplentifulthaninwinter。TheformercircumstanceI