April9th——Weleftourmiserablesleeping-placebeforesunrise。Theroadpassedthroughanarrowsandyplain,lyingbetweentheseaandtheinteriorsaltlagoons。Thenumberofbeautifulfishingbirds,suchasegretsandcranes,andthesucculentplantsassumingmostfantasticalforms,gavetothesceneaninterestwhichitwouldnototherwisehavepossessed。Thefewstuntedtreeswereloadedwithparasiticalplants,amongwhichthebeautyanddeliciousfragranceofsomeoftheorchideaeweremosttobeadmired。Asthesunrose,thedaybecameextremelyhot,andthereflectionofthelightandheatfromthewhitesandwasverydistressing。WedinedatMandetiba;thethermometerintheshadebeing84degs。Thebeautifulviewofthedistantwoodedhills,reflectedintheperfectlycalmwaterofanextensivelagoon,quiterefreshedus。Asthevenda[1]herewasaverygoodone,andIhavethepleasant,butrareremembrance,ofanexcellentdinner,Iwillbegratefulandpresentlydescribeit,asthetypeofitsclass。Thesehousesareoftenlarge,andarebuiltofthickuprightposts,withboughsinterwoven,andafterwardsplastered。Theyseldomhavefloors,andneverglazedwindows;butaregenerallyprettywellroofed。
Universallythefrontpartisopen,formingakindofverandah,inwhichtablesandbenchesareplaced。Thebed-roomsjoinoneachside,andherethepassengermaysleepascomfortablyashecan,onawoodenplatform,coveredbyathinstrawmat。Thevendastandsinacourtyard,wherethehorsesarefed。OnfirstarrivingitwasourcustomtounsaddlethehorsesandgivethemtheirIndiancorn;then,withalowbow,toaskthesenhortodousthefavourtogiveupsomethingtoeat。“Anythingyouchoose,sir。”washisusualanswer。Forthefewfirsttimes,vainlyIthankedprovidenceforhavingguidedustosogoodaman。Theconversationproceeding,thecaseuniversallybecamedeplorable。“Anyfishcanyoudousthefavourofgiving?”——“Oh!no,sir。”——“Anysoup?”——“No,sir。”——“Anybread?”——
“Oh!no,sir。”——“Anydriedmeat?”——“Oh!no,sir。”Ifwewerelucky,bywaitingacoupleofhours,weobtainedfowls,rice,andfarinha。Itnotunfrequentlyhappened,thatwewereobligedtokill,withstones,thepoultryforourownsupper。When,thoroughlyexhaustedbyfatigueandhunger,wetimorouslyhintedthatweshouldbegladofourmeal,thepompous,andthoughtruemostunsatisfactoryanswerwas,“Itwillbereadywhenitisready。”Ifwehaddaredtoremonstrateanyfurther,weshouldhavebeentoldtoproceedonourjourney,asbeingtooimpertinent。Thehostsaremostungraciousanddisagreeableintheirmanners;theirhousesandtheirpersonsareoftenfilthilydirty;thewantoftheaccommodationofforks,knives,andspoonsiscommon;andIamsurenocottageorhovelinEnglandcouldbefoundinastatesoutterlydestituteofeverycomfort。AtCamposNovos,however,wefaredsumptuously;havingriceandfowls,biscuit,wine,andspirits,fordinner;coffeeintheevening,andfishwithcoffeeforbreakfast。Allthis,withgoodfoodforthehorses,onlycost2s。6d。perhead。Yetthehostofthisvenda,beingaskedifheknewanythingofawhipwhichoneofthepartyhadlost,grufflyanswered,“HowshouldIknow?
whydidyounottakecareofit?——Isupposethedogshaveeatenit。”
LeavingMandetiba,wecontinuedtopassthroughanintricatewildernessoflakes;insomeofwhichwerefresh,inotherssaltwatershells。Oftheformerkinds,IfoundaLimnaeaingreatnumbersinalake,intowhich,theinhabitantsassuredmethattheseaentersonceayear,andsometimesoftener,andmakesthewaterquitesalt。Ihavenodoubtmanyinterestingfacts,inrelationtomarineandfreshwateranimals,mightbeobservedinthischainoflagoons,whichskirtthecoastofBrazil。M。Gay[2]hasstatedthathefoundintheneighbourhoodofRio,shellsofthemarinegenerasolenandmytilus,andfreshwaterampullariae,livingtogetherinbrackishwater。IalsofrequentlyobservedinthelagoonneartheBotanicGarden,wherethewaterisonlyalittlelesssaltthaninthesea,aspeciesofhydrophilus,verysimilartoawater-beetlecommonintheditchesofEngland:inthesamelaketheonlyshellbelongedtoagenusgenerallyfoundinestuaries。