AfterfirstgoingtotheOwen,atCampobello,thePasmerstookroomsattheTy’n-y-Coed,whichissomuchgayer,evenifitisnotsocharacteristicoftheoldWelshAdmiral’sbaronialpossessionoftheisland。Itischaracteristicenough,andperchedonitsbluffoverlookingthebay,orwhateverthebodyofwateris,itseesascoreofprettyislesandlongreachesofmainlandcoast,withawhitemarbleeffectofwhite-paintedwoodenEastport,nestledinthewidelapoftheshore,inapparentluxuryandapparentinnocenceofsmugglingandthemanufactureofherringsardines。ThewatersthatwraptheislandinmorningandeveningfogtempertheairofthelatitudetoaNewportsoftnessinsummer,withasortofinnercoolnessthatispeculiarlydelicious,lullingthedaywithlongcalmsandlightbreezes,andafternightfallcommonlysendingastiffgaletotrythestopsofthehotel’sgablesandcasements,andtomakethecheerfulblazeonitspublichearthsacceptable。OnceortwiceadaytheEastportferry-boatarrives,withpassengersfromthesouthward,atafloatingwharfthatsinksorswimshalfahundredfeetonthemightytidesoftheNortheast;butallnightlongtheislandisshutuptoitsownmemoriesanddevices。TheprettyromanceoftheoldsailorwholeftEnglandtobecomeasortoffeudalseigneurhere,withaholdingoftheentireisland,anditsfisher-folkforhisvilleins,formsapicturesquebackgroundfortheaestheticleisureandsocietyinthethreehotelsrememberinghimandhislanguageintheirnames,andhousingwithafewcottagesallthesojournersontheisland。Bydaythebroadhotelpiazzassheltersuchoftheguestsasprefertoletothersmaketheirexcursionsintotheheartoftheisland,andarounditsrocky,sea-beatenborders;andatnight,whenthefallingmistshavebroughttheearlydark,andfromlighthousetolighthousethefog-hornsmoanandlowtooneanother,thepiazzascedetothecorridorsandtheparloursandsmoking-rooms。Thelifedoesnotgreatlydifferfromotherseasidehotellifeonthesurface,andifoneweretomakedistinctionsonewouldperhapsbeginbysayingthathotelsocietytherehasmuchofthetoneofcottagesocietyelsewhere,withalittlemoreaccessibility。Asthereaderdoubtlessknows,thegreatmassofBostonsociety,thoughtfulofitsownweightandbulk,transportsitselfdowntheNorthShorescarcelyfurtherthanManchesteratthefurthest;buttherearemorecourageousormoredetachablespiritswhoventureintomoredistantregions。ThesecontributesomewhattowardpeoplingBarHarbourinthesummer,buttheyscarcelycharacteriseitinanydegree;whileatCampobellotheysettleinlittledaringcolonies,whoseself-reliancewillenlisttheadmirationofthesympatheticobserver。Theydonotrefusetheknowledgeofothercoloniesofotherstirpsandorigins,andtheyevencombineintemporaryalliancewiththem。But,afterall,Bostonspeaksonelanguage,andNewYorkanother,andWashingtonathird,andthoughtheseveraldialectshaveonlyslightdifferencesofinflection,theirmoralaccentsrendereachalittledifficultfortheothers。Infacteverysocietyisrepellantofstrangersinthedegreethatitissufficienttoitself,andisincuriousconcerningtherestoftheworld。Ifithasnottheelementsofself-
satisfactioninit,ifitisuninformedandnewandrestless,itismorehospitablethananoldersocietywhichhasasenseofmeritfoundeduponhistoricaldocuments,andneednolongergooutofitselfforcomparisonsofanysort,knowingthatifitseeksanythingbetteritwillprobablybedisappointed。Thenaturalman,thesavage,isasindifferenttoothersastheexclusive,andthosewhoaccusethecoldnessoftheBostonians,andtheirreluctantorrepellantbehaviourtowardunknownpeople,accusenotonlycivilisation,butnatureitself。
Thatloveofindependencewhichisnotableinuseveninourmostacquiescentphasesathomeisperhapswhatbringsthesecultivatedandagreeablepeoplesofaraway,wheretheycanachieveasortofsylvanurbanitywithoutresponsibility,andwithoutthatmeasuringofpurseswhichattendsthesummerdisplayelsewhere。AtCampobelloonemightbepoorwithalmostaslittleshameasinCambridgeifonewerecultivated。
Mrs。Pasmer,whoseldomfailedofdoingjusttherightthingforherself,hadpromptlydivinedtheadvantagesofCampobelloforherfamily。Sheknew,bydintofalittleinquiry,andfromthevolunteerinformationofenthusiastswhohadbeentherethesummerbefore,justwhowaslikelytobethereduringthesummerwithwhichshenowfoundherselfconfronted。
Campobellobeingyetanewthing,itwasnotopentotheobjectionthatyouweresuretomeetsuchandsuchpeople,moreorlesscommonordisagreeable,there;whateverhappened,itcouldbelightlyhandledintheretrospectastheadventureofapartialandfragmentarysummerwhenreallyshehardlycaredwheretheywent。