ButwhilethesegreatservicesatSt。Peter’sinthosehalcyondayswereperfectintheirkind,thesamecouldnotbesaidofmanyothers。TheworstthatIeversaw——onewhichespeciallydwellsinmymemory——wasatPisa。Ihadpreviouslyvisitedtheplaceandknewitwell,sothatwhen,oneSundaymorning,aCanadianclergymanatthehotelwishedtogotothecathedral,I
offeredtoguidehim。Hewasevidentlyamanofdeepsincerity,and,aswassoonrevealedbyhisconversation,ofhigh—churchandevenritualistictendencies;but,tomygreatsurprise,heremarkedthathehadneverattendedserviceinaRomanCatholicchurch。Arrivingatthecathedraltoolateforthehighcelebration,wewalkeddownthenaveuntilwecametoasidealtarwhereapriestwasgoingthroughalowmass,withasmallcongregationofdelayedworshipers,andwetookourplacebackofthese。Thepriestracedthroughtheserviceatthehighestpossiblespeed。Hismotionswerelikethoseofanautomaton:hekeptturningquicklytoandfroasifonapivot;claspinghishandsbeforehisbreastasifbymachinery;bowinghisheadasifitmovedbyaspringinhisneck;mumblingandrattlinglikewindinachimney;thechoir—boywhoservedthemasswithhimjinglinghisbellasirreverentlyasifhewereconductingagreen—grocer’scart。MyAnglicancompanionimmediatelybegantobeunhappy,andwassoondeeplydistressed。Hegroanedagainandagain。Hewhispered,\"Goodheavens,isitlikethis?Isthisthewaytheydoit?Thisisfearful!\"Aswecamefromthechurchhewasverysorrowful,andIadministeredtohimsuchcomfortasI
could,butnothingcouldremedythismostpainfuldisenchantment。
AndhereImaysaythatIhaveneverbeenabletounderstandhowanyAnglicanchurchmancanfeelanyinsufficiencyintheLord’sSupperasadministeredinhisownbranchofthechurch。Ihavenevertakenpartinit,butmorethanonceIhavelingeredtoseeit,andeveninitssimplestformithasalwaysgreatlyimpressedme。Itisaservicewhichallcanunderstand;itswordshavecomedownthroughtheages;itsceremonialiscalm,comprehensible,touching;andthewholeideaofcommunioninmemoryofthelastsceneintheSaviour’slife,whichbringstheworshiperintolovingrelationnotonlywithhim,butwithallthechurch,militantandtriumphant,is,tomymind,infinitelynoblerandmorereligiousthanallparaphernalia,genuflexions,andman—millinery。HowanyProtestant,however\"high\"inhistendencies,canfeelotherwiseisincomprehensibletome。
AtthatfirstofmymanyvisitstoRome,therehadcomeoneexperiencewhichhadgreatlysoftenedanyofmyinheritedProtestantprejudices。OurpartyhadbeenlumberingalongalldayontheroadfromCivitaVecchia,whensuddenlytheredashedbyusafinetraveling—coachdrawnbyfourhorsesriddenbypostilions。