Onmyaskingifhethoughthecouldbearthesevereruleofhisorder,especiallythatofrisingaboutfouro’clockinthemorningandretiringearlyintheevening,heansweredthatformerlyhefearedthathecouldnot,butthatnowhebelievedhecould。OnmytentativesuggestionthathecomeandestablishaBenedictineconventonCayugaLake,hetoldmethatheshouldprobablybesenttoScotland。
Therenownedoldmonasteryseemstobemindfulofitsbesttraditions,forithasestablishedwithinitswallsanadmirablyequippedprinting—house,inwhichIwasabletosecureforCornellUniversitycopiesofvariousbooksbylearnedBenedictines——someofthem,bythebeautyoftheirworkmanship,wellworthytobeplacedbesidetheilluminatedmanuscriptswhichformerlycamefromtheScriptoria。
AtRomeIwastakenaboutbyLanciani,theeminentarchaeologistincontroloftheexcavations,whoshowedmebeautifulthingsnewlydiscoveredandnowkeptintemporaryroomsneartheCapitol。Tomysurprise,hetoldmethatthereisabsolutelynoauthenticbustofCicerodatingfromhistime;butthiswasafterwarddeniedbyStory,theAmericansculptor,whopointedouttomeacastofoneinhisstudio。StoryspokegloomilyoftheconditionofItaly,sayingthatformerlytherewerenotaxes,butthatnowthetaxesarecrushing。HeaddedthatthegreatestmistakemadebythepresentPopewasthat,duringthecholeraatNaples,heremainedinRome,whileKingHumbertwentimmediatelytothatcity,visitedthehospitals,cheeredthecholera—stricken,comfortedthem,andsuppliedtheirwants。
OnEasterSundayIsawCardinalHowardcelebratehighmassinSt。
Peter’s。HehadbeenanEnglishguardsman,wasmagnificentlydressed,andwastheveryidealofaproudprelate。Theaudienceintheimmediateneighborhoodofthealtarwerenonetooreverential,andinotherpartsofthechurchwerewalkingaboutandtalkingasifinamarket;allofthisirreverenceremindingmeofthehighmasswhichIhadseencelebratedbyPopePiusIX