Themainhospitalities,sofarastheEmperorandEmpresswereconcerned,werethegreatfestivitiesattheWinterPalace,beginningontheRussianNewYear’sday,whichwastwelvedayslaterthanours。Thescenewasmostbrilliant。Thevasthallswerefilledwithcivilandmilitaryofficialsfromallpartsoftheempire,inthemostgorgeouscostumes,anespeciallystrikingeffectbeingproducedbythecaftans,orlongcoats,ofthevariousCossackregiments,thearmorandhelmetsoftheImperialGuards,andtheoldRussiancostumesoftheladies。Allofthelatter,onthisoccasion,fromtheEmpressdown,worethesecostumes:therewasgreatvarietyinthese;buttheirmainfeatureswerethekakoshniks,orornamentalcrowns,andthetunicsinbrightcolors。
ThenextofthesegreatceremoniesattheWinterPalacewastheblessingofthewatersuponthe8thofJanuary。ThediplomaticcorpsandotherguestswereallowedtotaketheirplacesatthepalacewindowslookingoutovertheNeva,andthencecouldseetheentireprocession,which,havinggonedowntheambassadors’
staircase,appearedatatemplewhichhadbeenerectedoveranopeningintheiceoftheriver。TheEmperor,thegranddukes,andtheArchbishopofSt。Petersburg,withhissuffraganbishops,alltookpartinthisceremonial;andthemusic,whichwasselectedfromtheanthemsofBortniansky,wasverysolemnandimpressive。
Duringthewintercamecourtballs,and,aboveall,the\"palmballs。\"Thelatterwere,inpointofbrilliancy,probablybeyondanythinginanycourtofmoderntimes。Afterareception,duringwhichtheEmperorandEmpresspassedalongthediplomaticcircle,speakingtothevariousmembers,dancingbegan,andwascontinueduntilaboutmidnight;thenthedoorswereflungopenintoothervasthalls,whichhadbeenchangedintopalm—groves。Thepalmsforthispurposeareverylargeandbeautiful,fourseriesofthembeingkeptintheconservatoriesforthisspecialpurpose,eachseriesbeingusedonewinterandthenallowedtorestforthreewintersbeforeitisbroughtoutagain。Underthesepalmsthesupper—tablesareplaced,andfromfifteenhundredtotwothousandpeoplesitattheseastheguestsoftheCzarandCzarina。Theseentertainmentsseemcarriedtotheextremeofluxury,theironlydefectbeingtheirsplendidmonotony:onlycivil,military,anddiplomaticofficialsarepresent,andanew—comerfindsmuchdifficultyinrememberingtheirnames。TherearesaidtobefourhundredPrincesGalitzinintheempire,andI
personallyknewthreeCountsTolstoiwhodidnotknoweachother;