butthisfactevidentlyloosenedthecordsofthefather’sheart,andduringmystayatVegahewasdevotedtome;
givingmeinformationofthegreatestvalueregardingthepeople,theirhabits,theirdiseases,andthelike,muchofwhich,uptothatmoment,thecommissionanditssubordinateshadvainlyendeavoredtosecure。
AndhereIrecallonethingwhichstruckmeassignificant。ThisasceticFrenchpriestwasverysevereincondemnationoftheoldSpanishpriesthoodoftheisland。
WhenIaskedhimregardingthemoralsofthepeopleheanswered,``Howcanyouexpectgoodmoralsinthemwhentheirpastorssetsuchbadexamples?’’ItwasevidentthatthechurchauthoritiesatRomewereofhisopinion;forinnearlyeverytownIfoundnotonlyajolly,kindly,easy—goingoldSpanishpadre,surroundedby``nephews’’and``nieces,’’butamoreaustereecclesiasticrecentlyarrivedfromFranceorItaly。
Intheimpressionsmadeuponmebythislongandtediousjourneyacrosstheisland,pleasureandpainwereconstantlymingled。Ononehandwasthewonderfulbeautyofthescenery,theluxurianceofthevegetation,andthebracingwarmthoftheclimate,whiletheUnitedStatesweregoingthroughawintermorethanusuallybitter。