Inherstreetsonefoundtheextremesofmagnificenceandmisery,ofcivilisationanddisorder。Inonequarter,palacesofmarble,lacedand,crownedwithlightandflameandflowers,toweredupintohermarvelloustwilightsbeautiful,beyonddescription;inanother,ablackandsinisterpolyglotpopulationswelteredinindescribablecongestioninwarrens,andexcavationsbeyondthepowerandknowledgeofgovernment。Hervice,hercrime,herlawalikewereinspiredbyafierceandterribleenergy,andlikethegreatcitiesofmediaevalItaly,herwaysweredarkandadventurouswithprivatewar。
ItwasthepeculiarshapeofManhattanIsland,pressedinbyarmsoftheseaoneitherside,andincapableofcomfortableexpansion,exceptalonganarrownorthwardbelt,thatfirstgavetheNewYorkarchitectstheirbiasforextremeverticaldimensions。Everyneedwaslavishlysuppliedthem——money,material,labour;onlyspacewasrestricted。Tobegin,therefore,theybuilthighperforce。Buttodosowastodiscoverawholenewworldofarchitecturalbeauty,ofexquisiteascendantlines,andlongafterthecentralcongestionhadbeenrelievedbytunnelsunderthesea,fourcolossalbridgesovertheeastriver,andadozenmono—railcableseastandwest,theupwardgrowthwenton。InmanywaysNewYorkandhergorgeousplutocracyrepeatedVeniceinthemagnificenceofherarchitecture,painting,metal—workandsculpture,forexample,inthegrimintensity,ofherpoliticalmethod,inhermaritimeandcommercialascendancy。Butsherepeatednopreviousstateatallinthelaxdisorderofherinternaladministration,alaxitythatmadevastsectionsofherarealawlessbeyondprecedent,sothatitwaspossibleforwholedistrictstobeimpassable,whilecivilwarragedbetweenstreetandstreet,andforAlsatiastoexistinhermidstinwhichtheofficialpoliceneversetfoot。Shewasanethnicwhirlpool。Theflagsofallnationsflewinherharbour,andattheclimax,theyearlycomingandgoingoverseasnumberedtogetherupwardsoftwomillionhumanbeings。ToEuropeshewasAmerica,toAmericashewasthegatewayoftheworld。
ButtotellthestoryofNewYorkwouldbetowriteasocialhistoryoftheworld;saintsandmartyrs,dreamersandscoundrels,thetraditionsofathousandracesandathousandreligions,wenttohermakingandthrobbedandjostledinherstreets。Andoverallthattorrentialconfusionofmenandpurposesflutteredthatstrangeflag,thestarsandstripes,thatmeantatoncethenoblestthinginlife,andtheleastnoble,thatistosay,Libertyontheonehand,andontheotherthebasejealousytheindividualself—seekerfeelstowardsthecommonpurposeoftheState。
FormanygenerationsNewYorkhadtakennoheedofwar,saveasathingthathappenedfaraway,thataffectedpricesandsuppliedthenewspaperswithexcitingheadlinesandpictures。TheNewYorkersfeltperhapsevenmorecertainlythantheEnglishhaddonethatwarintheirownlandwasanimpossiblething。InthattheysharedthedelusionofallNorthAmerica。Theyfeltassecureasspectatorsatabullfight;theyriskedtheirmoneyperhapsontheresult,butthatwasall。AndsuchideasofwarasthecommonAmericanspossessedwerederivedfromthelimited,picturesque,adventurouswarofthepast。Theysawwarastheysawhistory,throughaniridescentmist,deodorised,scentedindeed,withallitsessentialcrueltiestactfullyhiddenaway。
Theywereinclinedtoregretitassomethingennobling,tosighthatitcouldnolongercomeintotheirownprivateexperience。