The Innocents Abroad

第17章

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第17章

The Innocents Abroad Mark Twain

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The Innocents Abroad
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  Notintcouldbemoreravishing,nolustremoresuperb。Throwastoneintothewater,andthemyriadoftinybubblesthatarecreatedflashoutabrilliantglarelikebluetheatricalfires。Dipanoar,anditsbladeturnstosplendidfrostedsilver,tintedwithblue。Letamanjumpin,andinstantlyheiscasedinanarmormoregorgeousthaneverkinglyCrusaderwore。

  ThenwewenttoIschia,butIhadalreadybeentothatislandandtiredmyselftodeath\"resting\"acoupleofdaysandstudyinghumanvillainy,withthelandlordoftheGrandeSentinelleforamodel。SowewenttoProcida,andfromthencetoPozzuoli,whereSt。PaullandedafterhesailedfromSamos。IlandedatpreciselythesamespotwhereSt。Paullanded,andsodidDanandtheothers。Itwasaremarkablecoincidence。St。PaulpreachedtothesepeoplesevendaysbeforehestartedtoRome。

  Nero\'sBaths,theruinsofBaiæ,theTempleofSerapis;Cumæ,wheretheCumænSybilinterpretedtheoracles,theLakeAgnano,withitsancientsubmergedcitystillvisiblefardowninitsdepths——theseandahundredotherpointsofinterestweexaminedwithcriticalimbecility,buttheGrottooftheDogclaimedourchiefattention,becausewehadheardandreadsomuchaboutit。EverybodyhaswrittenabouttheGrottodelCaneanditspoisonousvapors,fromPlinydowntoSmith,andeverytouristhasheldadogoveritsfloorbythelegstotestthecapabilitiesoftheplace。Thedogdiesinaminuteandahalf——achickeninstantly。Asageneralthing,strangerswhocrawlintheretosleepdonotgetupuntiltheyarecalled。Andthentheydon\'teither。Thestrangerthatventurestosleeptheretakesapermanentcontract。Ilongedtoseethisgrotto。

  Iresolvedtotakeadogandholdhimmyself\';suffocatehimalittle,andtimehim;suffocatehimsomemoreandthenfinishhim。Wereachedthegrottoataboutthreeintheafternoon,andproceededatoncetomaketheexperiments。Butnow,animportantdifficultypresenteditself。Wehadnodog。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

  AttheHermitagewewereaboutfifteenoreighteenhundredfeetabovethesea,andthusfaraportionoftheascenthadbeenprettyabrupt。Forthenexttwomilestheroadwasamixture——sometimestheascentwasabruptandsometimesitwasnot:butonecharacteristicitpossessedallthetime,withoutfailure——withoutmodification——itwasalluncompromis—inglyandunspeakablyinfamous。Itwasarough,narrowtrail,andledoveranoldlavaflow——ablackoceanwhichwastumbledintoathousandfantasticshapes——awildchaosofruin,desolation,andbarrenness——awildernessofbillowyupheavals,offuriouswhirlpools,ofminiaturemountainsrentasunder——ofgnarledandknotted,wrinkledandtwistedmassesofblacknessthatmimickedbranchingroots,greatvines,trunksoftrees,allinterlacedandmingledtogether:andalltheseweirdshapes,allthisturbulentpanorama,allthisstormy,far—stretchingwasteofblackness,withitsthrillingsuggestivenessoflife,ofaction,ofboiling,surging,furiousmotion,waspetrified!——allstrickendeadandcoldintheinstantofitsmaddestrioting!——fettered,paralyzed,andlefttogloweratheaveninimpotentrageforevermore!

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