ByLyonsandtheSaône(wherewesawtheladyofLyonsandthoughtlittleofhercomeliness),byVillaFranca,Tonnere,venerableSens,Melun,Fontainebleau,andscoresofotherbeautifulcities,weswept,alwaysnotingtheabsenceofhogwallows,brokenfences,cowlots,unpaintedhouses,andmud,andalwaysnoting,aswell,thepresenceofcleanliness,grace,tasteinadorningandbeautifying,eventothedispositionofatreeortheturningofahedge,themarvelofroadsinperfectrepair,voidofrutsandguiltlessofevenaninequalityofsurface——webowledalong,hourafterhour,thatbrilliantsummerday,andasnightfallapproachedweenteredawildernessofodorousflowersandshrubbery,spedthroughit,andthen,excited,delighted,andhalfpersuadedthatwewereonlythesportofabeautifuldream,lo,westoodinmagnificentParis!
Whatexcellentordertheykeptaboutthatvastdepot!Therewasnofranticcrowdingandjostling,noshoutingandswearing,andnoswaggeringintrusionofservicesbyrowdyhackmen。Theselattergentrystoodoutside——stoodquietlybytheirlonglineofvehiclesandsaidneveraword。Akindofhackmangeneralseemedtohavethewholematteroftransportationinhishands。Hepolitelyreceivedthepassengersandusheredthemtothekindofconveyancetheywanted,andtoldthedriverwheretodeliverthem。Therewasno\"talkingback,\"nodissatisfactionaboutovercharging,nogrumblingaboutanything。InalittlewhilewewerespeedingthroughthestreetsofParisanddelightfullyrecognizingcertainnamesandplaceswithwhichbookshadlongagomadeusfamiliar。Itwaslikemeetinganoldfriendwhenweread\"RuedeRivoli\"onthestreetcorner;weknewthegenuinevastpalaceoftheLouvreaswellasweknewitspicture;whenwepassedbytheColumnofJulyweneedednoonetotelluswhatitwasortoremindusthatonitssiteoncestoodthegrimBastille,thatgraveofhumanhopesandhappiness,thatdismalprisonhousewithinwhosedungeonssomanyyoungfacesputonthewrinklesofage,somanyproudspiritsgrewhumble,somanybraveheartsbroke。
Wesecuredroomsatthehotel,orrather,wehadthreebedsputintooneroom,sothatwemightbetogether,andthenwewentouttoarestaurant,justafterlamplighting,andateacomfortable,satisfactory,lingeringdinner。Itwasapleasuretoeatwhereeverythingwassotidy,thefoodsowellcooked,thewaiterssopolite,andthecominganddepartingcompanysomoustached,sofrisky,soaffable,sofearfullyandwonderfullyFrenchy!
Allthesurroundingsweregayandenlivening。Twohundredpeoplesatatlittletablesonthesidewalk,sippingwineandcoffee;thestreetswerethrongedwithlightvehiclesandwithjoyouspleasure—seekers;therewasmusicintheair,lifeandactionallaboutus,andaconflagrationofgaslighteverywhere!
AfterdinnerwefeltlikeseeingsuchParisianspecialtiesaswemightseewithoutdistressingexertion,andsowesaunteredthroughthebrilliantstreetsandlookedatthedaintytriflesinvarietystoresandjewelryshops。Occasionally,merelyforthepleasureofbeingcruel,weputunoffendingFrenchmenontherackwithquestionsframedintheincomprehensiblejargonoftheirnativelanguage,andwhiletheywrithedweimpaledthem,wepepperedthem,wescarifiedthem,withtheirownvileverbsandparticiples。