AMERICAN NOTES

第9章

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第9章

AMERICAN NOTES 佚名

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AMERICAN NOTES
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  Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem,thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places,too,areshocking。Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves,ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem,mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression。

  Butthedarkness-notofskin,butmind-whichmeetsthestranger\'seyeateveryturn;thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNature\'shand;immeasurablyoutdohisworstbelief。Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatirist\'sbrain,whofreshfromlivingamonghorses,peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror,wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight,thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe。

  Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge,who,afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight,andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles,waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouro\'clockinthemorning;andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas,andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle。

  IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore;butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident,andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain,wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcomethereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat,inpursuitofrunawayslaves,andhaltingthereagainforonenight,wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon。

  ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates,andtheywerenotafew,isBarnum\'s,inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed,forthefirstandprobablythelasttimeinAmericathisisadisinterestedremark,forIneverusethem;andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself,whichisnotatallacommoncase。

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