Abovethispicturetherehangtwoothers——alsoveryinteresting，frombeingexamplesof，asitwere，thelastgroansoftrueartwhilebeingstifledbyacademicism——oritmaybetheattemptatanewbirth，whichwasneverthelessdoomedtoextinctionbyacademicianswhileyetinitsinfancy。SuchpicturesaretobefoundalloverItaly。Sometimes，asinthecaseoftheworkofDedomenici，theyhaveabsolutemerit——morecommonlytheyhavetherelativemeritofshowingthatthepainterwastryingtolookandfeelforhimself，andapicturedoesmuchwhenitconveysthisimpression。Itisasmallstillvoice，which，howeversmall，canbeheardthroughandabovetheroarofcantwhichtriestodrownit。WewantabookabouttheunknownItalianpaintersinout-of-
the-wayItalianvalleysduringthetimesofthedecadenceofart。
Thereisamplematerialforonewhohasthetimeathiscommand。
Welunchedatthehouseoftheincumbent，amonk，whowasverykindtous。WefoundhimdryingFrenchmarigoldblossomstocolourhisrisottowithduringthewinter。Hegaveussomeexcellentwine，andtookusoverthetowernearthechurch。Nothingcanbemorelovelythanthemonk\'sgarden。Ifaestheticpeopleareevergoingtogettiredofsun-flowersandlilies，letmesuggesttothemthattheywillfindawearyutternessinchicoryandseedonionswhichtheyshouldnotoverlook；IneverfeltchicoryandseedonionstillIwasinthemonk\'sgardenatS。MariainCalanca。Allabouttheterraceorartificiallevelgroundonwhichthechurchisplaced，thereareadmirablebitsforpainting，andiftherewasonlyaccommodationsothatonecouldgetupashighasthealpi，IcanfancyfewbetterplacestostayatthanS。MariainCalanca。
CHAPTERXIX——TheMendrisiottoWestayedadayortwoatBellinzona，andthenwentonovertheMonteCeneretoLugano。MyfirstacquaintancewiththeMonteCenerewasmadesomeseven-and-thirtyyearsagowhenIwasasmallboy。IrememberwithwhatdelightIfoundwildnarcissusesgrowinginameadowuponthetopofit，andwasallowedtogatherasmanyasIliked。ItwasnottillsomethirtyyearsafterwardsthatI