Letanyonefancyanexcursionamidst900ships,greatandsmall,whichlinedbothshoresoftheElbeintiersofthreedeepormore;
thepassingtoandfroofcountlessboatsbusilyemployedinloadingorunloadingthesevessels;thesethings,togetherwiththeshoutingandsingingofthesailors,therattlingofanchorswhicharebeingweighed,andtherushandswellofpassingsteamers,combinetoconstituteapicturenottobesurpassedinanycityexceptinthatmetropolisoftheworld,London。{12}
Thereasonofthisunusualactivityintheharbourlayintheseverityofthepastwinter。Suchawinterhadnotbeenexperiencedforseventyyears:theElbeandtheBalticlayformonthsinicychains,andnotashipcouldtraversethefrozenriver,notananchorcouldbeweighedorlowered。Itwasonlyashorttimebeforemyarrivalthatthepassagehadoncemorebecomefree。
Intheneighbourhoodoftheharbouraresituatedthegreaternumberoftheso-called\"yards。\"Ihadreadconcerningthemthat,viewedfromtheexterior,theylooklikecommonhouses;butthattheyconstituteseparatecommunities,andcontainalleysandstreets,servingasthedomicileofinnumerablefamilies。Ivisitedseveraloftheseplaces,andcanassurethereaderthatIsawnothingextraordinaryinthem。Houseswithtwolargewings,forminganalleyoffromeightytoahundredpacesinlength,aretobemetwithineverylargetown;andthatanumberoffamiliesshouldinhabitsuchahouseisnotremarkable,consideringthattheyareallpoor,andthateachonlypossessesasinglesmallapartment。
Thefavouritewalkinthetownisthe\"Jungfernstieg\"Maiden\'sWalk,abroadalley,extendingroundaspaciousandbeautifulbasinoftheAlster。Ononesidearesplendidhotels,withwhichHamburghisrichlyprovided;ontheother,anumberofprivateresidencesofequalpretensions。Otherwalksare,the\"Wall,\"surroundingthetown,andthe\"BotanicalGarden,\"whichresemblesafinepark。Thenoblestbuilding,distinguishedalikeasregardsluxury,skill,tastefulnessofdesign,andstability,istheBazaar。Itistrulyagiganticundertaking,andthemoretobeadmiredfromthefactthatitisnotbuiltuponshares,butattheexpenseofasingleindividual,HerrCarlSillem;thearchitect\'snameisOverdick。Thebuildingitselfisconstructedentirelyofstone,andthewallsofthegreatroomandofthehallareinlaidwithmarble。Aloftycupolaandanimmenseglazeddomecoverboththegreatroomandthehall;theupperstaircasesareornamentedwithbeautifulstatues。